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Assisted Bed Leveling (Tramming) (4 point)

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dl200010 edited this page May 7, 2024 · 6 revisions

Assisted Bed Leveling (Tramming) (4 point)

  1. Move all the wheels on the bed to compress the springs fully, until you cannot turn them anymore, but do not force them or you can break them IMG_20240128_131732334

  2. Back each out 1.5 - 2 turns

  3. Turn on machine. You can start here if you have leveled / trammed while doing 1 and 2 before.

  4. Warm the bed to the temp you are using or 60 C

  5. Warm the nozzle to the temp you are using or 200 C. You can click on the blue numbers on the home screen to set the temps. IMG_20240128_131848860 IMG_20240128_132146668

  6. Wait 10-15 minutes after everything is to temp

  7. Home Z (ready > home button between up and down) IMG_20240128_133621671 IMG_20240128_133624153 IMG_20240128_133647374

  8. Go into manual level (do not go into CR touch) IMG_20240128_133710364 IMG_20240128_133719526 IMG_20240128_133734779

  9. Adjust z offset on point 1 using the paper trick or a feeler gauge of 0.1 mm IMG_20240128_133846745 Press the up arrow on 0.05 until you can see space between the bed and nozzle. Slide the paper / feeler gauge under the nozzle and press the down on 0.05 or 0.01 while moving the paper / feeler gauge. Adjust the z offset until you feel slight resistance on the paper / feeler gauge as you pull on it while keeping it straight. IMG_20240128_133904690

  10. Go into manual CR touch level, than "Assisted", and run "autorun". Adjust until the points are all close to each other. Each cornter will tell you an estimated fractions of a turn to bring into level. Keep running "Autorun" and adjusting until the points are close and the "Down/Up" tells you "0 turns & 0 minutes". Spend as much time on this as possible to get the 4 corner points as close as possible. This will pay off when going to print. The adjustments will get smaller and smaller as you go along. (If points 2, 3, and 4 are lower than point 1 but close to each other, then you can lower point 1 to maintain tightness of the springs. Point 1 is what the other three are measured from for the turns/mins listed after an autorun.) IMG_20240128_133944878 IMG_20240128_133951540 IMG_20240128_133956552 IMG_20240128_133958432 IMG_20240128_134115310 IMG_20240128_193831309

  11. Run the autorun on the CR touch a few times and watch the numbers. They should stay close to each other and not jump around by large margins. They will change every single time you run the autorun, but as long as they stay close you should be good to go.

  12. Home Z (ready > home button between up and down)

  13. Go into manual level (do not go into CR touch)

  14. Adjust z offset on point 1 using the paper trick or a feeler gauge of 0.1 mm

  15. Go into auto level and run it IMG_20240128_194210127 IMG_20240128_201214339

  16. Go and print what you are printing. Use "M420 S1 Z10" after "G28" in your gcode to use the saved mesh taken in step 15, or use "G29" after "G28" in your gcode to take a new mesh every time you print. I suggest printing 3D Benchy (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622) (at least the first 4 layers) and checking the words on the bottom to verify your z offset. Below is a example of the z offset being perfect. You may see the lines in the first layer. You should be able to catch your finger nail in the lettering. If you are unable to catch your finger nail in the lettering and/or the lettering looks thinner than the given image, then the nozzle is too close to the bed. Adjust the z offset by raising it by 0.05 and print again. If the lines in the very first layer have space between them, then the nozzle is too far from the bed. Adjust the z offset by lowering it by 0.05 and print again. You can use 0.01 to fine tune the z offset to your liking. IMG_20230929_175854293 (ignore the cat hair...)

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